BIVIO GERACI ONE ROOM SUPER ECONOMIC HOTEL.

LEFT CLICK ON THIS IMAGE ONCE TO SEE THE ABOVE 

SUPER ECONOMIC BIVIO GERACI ONE ROOM HOTEL
IN ALL ITS MAGNIFICENT GLORY.  

ARRIVE EARLY OR ARRIVE LATE NO PROBLEM. 

LOCAL INSECTS AND BUTTERFLIES MAY DEMAND 

TO SEE YOUR YOUR PASSPORT SO HAVE IT HANDY. 

FEAR NOT ALL IS SAFE AND WELL AT PEACEFUL 
BIVIO GERACI.  YOU CAN, OF COURSE, ALSO  
REST UP OK UNDER A NEARBY SOLO TREE 
AS I ALSO HAVE DONE.     

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EARLY AUGUST 1995 SICILIAN NEBRODI "BOSCO MANGALAVITTI HARLEY DAVIDSON".

Now suddenly encountering this well off the beaten track parked up HARLEY DAVIDSON was a real surprise.  Of course it might still be parked-up but in significantly reduced MAGGOT format. I didn't try but felt sure in 1995 that this model could NOT be KICK STARTED.  Shame that!

I subsequently passed the HARLEY park-up spot over subsequent years passing to and fro between FLORESTA (HERE), the very lovely MONTE MALLARO "DESERTED COTTAGE" (HERE) and the unforgettable BOSCO MANGALAVITTI (HERE).

Maybe the owner was a HELLS ANGEL and of course with "respect" all power in his direction. I don''t think that the owner was the 1990 NEBRODI "TOTTENHAM" football supporter (HERE) or any of the very welcoming hospitable (1994) summer time PORTELLA FEMMINA MORTA "CARBON CAMP" burners (HERE). 

Left CLICK once on the above image 

and then and you'll be able to inspect the machine much more closely.  

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TOMB RAIDER. SOTTO ST MAURO CASTELVERDE. 21 SEPTEMBER 1992.

I took this ST MAURO CASTELVERDE TOMB  foto (for the record so to speak) on a return trip subsequent to 1992 as my camera on 21 SEPTEMBER 1992 en route by foot up to ST MAURO had suddenly stopped working. The weather along the way from BIVIO COMUNELLO walking by way of BIVIO CALABRO had suddenly become very bad with very heavy rains and much thunder and lightening. It was the very first occasion when I had made the wholly uphill climb from BIVIO CALABRO to ST MAURO and so I hadn't known quite what to expect. I certainly as always on my summer Sicily trips never carried a tent and hoped against hope that I would be able to manage along one way or another.

I was quite confused and fearful en route on the TOMB RAIDER occasion as the weather suddenly became very very bad indeed and altho I did not know exactly how far from ST MAURO I was on that early stormy darkening evening I eventually got on the look-out for somewhere to take shelter. During the afternoon my old notebooks record that the weather was sunny. But all that suddenly changed as the sun went down and evening drew nigh. Anyway lo and behold in my developing desperation I espied off the road the above TOMB and took overnight shelter therein. It was not in the township but in the countryside area. By then it was after 7pm and I'd walked about 15 miles since about 1.30pm.

The entrance door was pad locked but the lock was slightly ajar and so I manipulated it a little and made my way inside. I had a small torch. Inside there were many insects and large sized moths and even a SCORPION or two. Inside there was also a very narrow staircase winding down to a lower level (altho I never ever ventured to the lower level) and fortunately at the ground level so to speak there was just enough room to lay out my ground sheet and sleeping bag and so there I stayed overnight while the storm raged thunder and lightening. It was a bit strange overall but I just made the best of it and was not indifferent or disrespectful of the fact that it was a tomb. Next morning the weather had settled so on I treked on up to ST MAURO after re-securing the door and lock. Obviously it was quite a memorable occasion - the above foto was made for the record when I re-treked the route in subsequent years.

As I have already recounted in blogspots I certainly had more lovely times en route from BIVIO COMUNELLO HERE - via BIVIO CALABRO and MY SICILIAN BEDROOM HERE - to treke on and on via lovely BORRELLO ALTO to the quiet gentle POLLINA MARINA seaside beaches.

You can find the ST MAURO location (at No. 39)
on the Madonie Region Map link below -
but not the precise TOMB location. 

For a full chronological list of all SICILY ABLAZE page titles click HERE.

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NICOSIA (EN). "IN SICILY RELIGION IS PANTS!"

IN NICOSIA (EN) "RELIGION IS PANTS!" 

There it is and so you don't just have to take my word for it!

Not quite the same as MISTRETTA - click HERE.

Anyway don't be too suprised - wait until mid July and then click HERE
for a genuine NICOSIA CAVE MAN surprise.  

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“SHADE HOPPING” TO TAKE REFUGE FROM THE BLAZING SICILIAN SUN.

When I am casting back in my minds eye on occasions over the years of my MADONIE and NEBRODI MOUNTAINS walking excursions a phrase that recurs to me is “SHADE HOPPING”. It’s a descriptive phrase that I have good reason to look back on fondly. It signifies that altho’ there were very very many long walks through beautiful shady woodland and forest areas where shade was abundant, especially during the very hot long high summer days, there were certainly other times along contrasting roads where in the blazing sun with my sometimes weighty back pack, there was almost no shade whatsoever to be had from the hot blazing sun.

Sometimes a combination of tiredness and lack of shade encouraged me to scrutinise the roads ahead very carefully indeed and at various intervals set my mind for heading for espied individual wayside trees which projected down enough shade onto the nearside road surface for me to head for with some desperation so that I could stop there underneath in the shade for brief although extremely very welcome rests. So it was that I would mentally coach myself to enjoy these memorable "SHADE HOPPING" occasions. Of course there were times when I felt grumpy because there was no shade hopping prospect at all on the road ahead, and I would just have to slog on regardless. There was no alternative anyway.

Sometimes, when the going was difficult, I would see a small shady location in the distance and hope very much to be able to rest beneath the roadside tree which had cast its shadow but when I got to the location the actual road system at the particular spot was such that traffic conditions made it impossible to stop at all – it would be too dangerous. Disappointingly, at some moments therefore it was more complicated to SHADE HOP than I would have wished. Anyway “SHADE HOPPING” was a memorable occasional aspect of my travels.

I will search through my photographs and if I find something to illustrate a SHADE HOPPING location I will in due course add them to this particular blog narrative.

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EXCLUSIVE! MARLON BRANDO - SENSATIONAL NEW 2013 GODFATHER FILM EPHEMERA.

THE GODFATHER in 2013 ... like you've never seen him before.

Not even in CORLEONE!!

This new release will prove sensational. 

I will need a big supply of paper tissues

for eye-wiping during this summers Sicily excursions. 

This film is believed to have been directed by
3 Sicilian Geologists whose names

so far have not been released.
CLICK ...CLICK on the above images to enlarge the details.

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ST AGATA DI MILITELLO - CREATURE LIKE SHADOWY ANIMATIONS!

This ST AGATA DI MILITELLO (Messina Province) photograph I made quite some years ago now - if you CLICK on the image once its size and visibility will be greatly enhanced and you can then enjoy its creature like SHADOWY ANIMATIONS.  It's a foto I have always remembered and on occasional ST AGATA re-visits I have sat on the tree shaded public benches in this central ST AGATA location and rested up. The beach at ST AGATA I don't much care for at all but its creature like quite a surprise SHADOWY ANIMATIONS I certainly do.  These shadowy hanging BAT and CRAWLING INSECT like animations are no longer there but here they are still preserved for enjoyment. This photo's location is on STRADA STATALE 113 SICULA.

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A SMALL BUT MEMORABLE WAYSIDE RARITY. WHITE POPPIES!

It was June summertime SICILY 2004. And as sometimes happens (although relatively rarely) the rain was really lashing down. It was absolutely torrential rain. And for the first time ever in my life I'd seen some wayside white poppies from aboard a coach the day before.

So next day I went back on foot. I found the spot OK as I knew the road (Strada Statale117) and had made a mental note of it.  Before I quite reached the location to make matters even more traumatic a patrolling countryside CARABINIERI vehicle's custodians (probably bored out of their cocky peaked caps) decided to stop me thereabouts in the absolutely teeming rain to check my I.D. etc.,  I was very very far from endeared as I stood there getting absolutely soaked to the skin. Anyway I disappointed them and proved not to be the biggest criminal since THE GODFATHER!  For my satirical take on the Italian CRABINIERIE click HERE. 

Anyway I eventually got on my way again and took shelter for a while. And then walked on and hey presto I came upon the only WHITE POPPIES I have ever seen - as shown below.

CLICK CLICK on images to helpfully increase their VISIBILITY! 

They were along the NICOSIA road northwards en route to BIVIO CAPIZZI and CESARO or MISTRETTA. On the left hand side of the road about a kilometer or so beyond NICOSIA's CEMETARY. Over the years betwixt the MADONIE and NEBRODI mountains I had trudged this road backwards and forwards a few times - nice countryside. And several times I had holed up for BED AND BREAKFAST at LA VIGNETTA MOTEL at Porte Portelle - usually I stopped therein when well into my annual holiday and when in dire need of a good wash and the luxury of a civilized bed for a night or two.

Along this road - there was also an old CAVE I had discovered and I had also stayed therein overnight a few times - when the weather was unsettled and rainy wet. My next blog spot will feature my "CAVE MAN" stopovers. In fact I got to know and remember certain passing small locations along the various roads so that when the weather was unsettled I'd head thereto to take shelter until the weather had re-settled.  More in passing about these locations in my CAVE MAN blog spot - HERE.

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“ARSENAL, CHELSEA, TOTTENHAM, NOTTINGHAM FOREST!” NEBRODI 1990 CONTADINO FOOTBALL ENTHUSIAST.

September 1990 and I’d left the MONTE MALLARO “DESERTED COTTAGE”. Heading on foot towards FLORESTA eventually by way of PORTELLA MITTA I was passing through a beautiful open landscapes area with very very many grazing animals. I had covered about 2 kilometers of the journey from the DESERTED COTTAGE  pasture when I chanced upon this shepherd. We spoke – he hadn’t expected to encounter a lone South Londoner and although I did not expect him to speak English I did get a truly amazing surprise which I noted and have always remembered. When he realized my nationality he almost immediately blurted out with very energetic enthusiastic good humour

“ARSENAL, CHELSEA,

TOTTENHAM, 

NOTTINGHAM FOREST!”.

That was his sole English – and I absolutely do not mention this limitation grudgingly – absolutely not – it was a really lovely unexpected moment. Doubly so because I had never had any interest in football but notwithstanding this our exchange and meeting was really lovely.

CLICK on photo to increase its visibility and his contadino football enthusiasm!!

He'd be pretty elderly now and I certainly still hope
he’s doing OK in that really beautiful area of
the NEBRODI MOUNTAINS REGION.

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MONTE MALLARO. DESERTED COTTAGE WITH BEAUTIFUL ANIMALS.

"WHO THE HELL ARE YOU?" - he wonders

                                     

COTTAGE is encircled in red. 

COTTAGE again encircled in RED.

CLICK on images to enlarge and very much more fully enjoy.

 This DESERTED COTTAGE cottage in the MONTE MALLARO area of the Nebrodi Mountains regional parkland is about 4 hours walk from Sicily's highest village FLORESTA.  It’s a pretty beautiful walk through quite variable peaceful scenery - up hill down hill etcetera etcetera. Really nice.

From FLORESTA one heads north for PORTELLA MITTA then its westward sharp left on along the quiet mountain roads – through lovely varying scenery and very many grazing animals along the way. The last kilometer or so takes you down and down a steeply winding narrow track which at times is almost totally shaded overhead by arching trees and although a narrow space there were sometimes cows sat in the shade there who were quite at ease as you passed. In the early years there were no reliable maps for this particular location/ area - one had to rely on a compass and in this way this location was just by chance visited.

Eventually you suddenly arrived at wide open beautiful pastures and the slowly dilapidating deserted cottage. I made my last visit there two years ago - HERE - alas that will be my last as there had been pretty serious landslides along the above mentioned steep final 2 kilometer stretch which has made passage very dangerous - and if you came a cropper there-abouts you could end up there for the rest of eternity.

Anyway during my 25 years of Sicily walking sojourns I visited the DESERTED COTTAGE as I have labeled it on a number of lovely occasions sometimes staying put in very great peace for a few days or so - there were one or two occasions when I arrived at the cottage from a reverse direction – down down down the steep tracks and across pastures and small watercourses from also very beautiful BOSCO MANGALAVITI - on these occasions I would have legged it from PORTELLA FEMMINA MORTA or even CESARO via LAGO MAULAZZO and BIVIERE DI CESARO. Such fantastic exhilarating excursions.

Above and below - having a good back scratch
on 3 ultra reliable trees! 

Well, the above animal photographs were all taken in the immediate vicinity of the ultra peaceful deserted MONTE MALLARO cottage pastures. What truly beautiful majestic animals they were. Sometimes there were one or two horses also and just occasionally grouting wild CINGHIALI boars - as pictured immediately above. Sometimes a local Contadini would show up - amazed to come across some South London solo cockney at such an outlandish location. There were often many animals here - these selected photos are of a more individual nature. Really really memorable and always a location to greatly enjoy very much in anticipation returning to. 

On one occasion as shown in an above photo I left in-situ on an abandoned old cooking pan bottom one of my poems and (see below) I also carved my "I.C" initials on one of the nearby cottage trees.  When I most recently saw the small carving (two years ago) it was largely overgrown due to the passage of time. Alas rather like my ageing leg muscles too!

September 1990 - I'd just arrived down from
Bosco Mangalavitti.  He was present and was surprised and 
did not expect to see me. And his dogs asked him
"Padrone you gonna shoot him?" 

and he smiled and said "Oh no!"

The above IMAGE  PLAN provides annotated locations details along the route to the 
MONTE MALLARO location en route to and from PORTELLA MITTA.  
CLICK on image to increase its size and visibility. 


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MADONIE SOTTO LE STELLE "RAFFO PROJECT LUNA" 2012

 Here you have the a view of RAFFO VILLAGE 

nestling beneath the local mountainside. 

Here you have a shot of the central 

RAFFO VILLAGE LUNA PROJECT OBSERVATION POST.
CLICK on the above images to greatly increase their detail.

This LUNA PROJECT RAFFO "sotto the stelle" was begun in 2012 and is set to continue 24 / 7 through-out 2013 and possibly for even longer.  The RAFFO observer shown in the photograph is facing towards the nearby high mountainside above which the moon very often very massively and really beautifully rises. And in the very far distance on the right hand hillside ridge can just be seen a row of small dwellings originating from the MUSSOLINI era.  MADONIE SOTTO LE STELLE is certainly an intriguing place.  There is far more to RAFFO than a very large SALT MINE and various very enjoyable summer festivals.  If you visit Sicily and the MADONIE GEOPARK make an excursion to RAFFO.  
Reminder - there IS more to Sicily
than CORLEONE and the MAFIA.

This photo shows local "Madonie Sotto Le Stelle" 
enthusiasts in session in August 2012.
These folk are into "life changing experiences" -
their phraseology.
CLICK on it to enlarge and inspect. 
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HUNDREDS STRONG 2001 SUMMER SICILIAN CAMEL TRAIN.

"GANGI" CAMEL TRAIN.

"BIVIO GERACI" CAMEL TRAIN.

"FLORESTA" AND "CESARO" CAMEL TRAINS. 

"PETRALIA SOTTANA" AND "PETRALIA SOPRANA" CAMEL TRAIN.  

"TROINA, NICOSIA" AND "BIVIO GERACI" CAMEL TRAIN. 

CLICK ON IMAGES TO INCREASE THEIR VISIBILTY.

Over the 26 years of my tramping solo on foot along the lovely Sicilian Madonie and Nebrodi roads and other various exploratory itineraries I’ve often collected items of verge side ephemera. Some items I’ve kept and while en route have also made with certain items postcards to mail home to friends and family relations. I suddenly decided very memorably in 2001 when initially setting out on foot towards GANGI from BIVIO GERACI that although a life long non smoker throughout that summers trip I would collect all the verge side illustrated discarded CAMEL cigarette packets.

By the end of the holiday I  had several hundred. This became slightly more complicated because during the holiday I also happened to decide – after scrutinizing the CAMEL packet images - to cut out and separately save the small actual CAMEL images and also the MOSQUES. This was quite a task. It required quite careful pain staking use of small scissors. These cut-outs which still actually exist here in London are light heartedly displayed in groups as tho' forming representative CAMEL TRAIN images of the villages and other townships through which I’d hiked.

There sure cant be many - if any - other such SICILIAN CAMEL TRAINS in other locations. And nowadays the CAMEL CIGARETTE  packet illustrations are nothing like so visually fulsome. What you see above is only a small selection of my homely memorable post 2001 Sicily holidays CAMEL TRAIN display. It/s just a small eccentric evidence of my greatly enjoyed Sicily along the roads walking holidays.

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"CHEESUS IS COME" TO CAPIZZI

"CHEESUS" gets the CAPIZZI treatment.  

You have to be pazzo to join the NEBRODI CAPIZZI throng 

and obviously its obviously deemed a "blessing" if you are.
However very fortunately this is NOT and never will be
my own particular brand of "loopiness".

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BRAVO FOR PETRALIA SOTTANA "TOP SHOP". CORSO P. AGLIATA. 39.

The ultra disgusting Public Toilets of Petralia Sottana – HERE - stand and stink in stark contrast to PETRALIA's extremely heartening main street (CORSO P. AGLIATA) shop at No. 39!

The shop proprietor is GIUSEPPE INGUAGGIATO and this outlet easily deserves PETRALIA SOTTANA's "TOP SHOP” award – if one were to be awarded – for its fantastically heartening array of displayed hardware, tools and working implements and very very many other ultra useful items. 

Nowadays you would never find such an amazing hardware shop outlet in the London area. Like Madonnuzza is becoming LONDON has already deteriorated into a EUROSPIN style supermarket desert and heartening hardware outlets are almost no more. This PETRALIA SOTTANA outlet in addition to its immense display of objects also has available at least 2 catalogues from which additional choices can be made.

The above images do not at all adequately convey how amazing No.39 Agliata is – apologies for this. If you visit Petralia Sottana don’t miss an opportunity to browse No. 39 for yourself. No superficial tourist trinklets trivia outlet this one - that’s for sure.

Any visitor to PETRALIA SOTTANA shouldn’t neglect to visit and peruse this very very fine hardware outlet. 

Bravo No. 39 Corso P Agliata!

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MOLTO GRAZIE SINDACO SANTO. "GABINETTO DOMINI" NON FESTA PETRALIA SOTTANA 10 GIUGNO 2012. MAMMA MIA.

With his enthusiasm rooted firmly in the here and now Padre SANTINO SCILEPPI could very usefully indeed take it upon himself to preach a valuable sermon stressing the down to earth importance of adequate local PETRALIA SOTTANA PUBLIC TOILET PROVISION - see below. 

In Giugno one long term Petralia Sottana resident told me that he had never ever known any woman to use a Petralia Sottana public toilet. I had the impression that he had the underlying disposition that he didn’t expect them too anyway. What an astonishing 21^st Century outlook and record. I don’t actually believe what he averred because the female public toilet at the Via Garibaldi Car Park must surely have been so used at some time but not nowadays - because that toilet together with the adjacent male toilet is nowadays closed 24/7. Furthermore there is a public need because I have witnessed women requesting to use Petralia Bar and Trattoria toilets who are not actually intended customers. And the currently closed Via Garibaldi toilets are at the very significant location where folk catch Pullman Coaches to Palermo for about a 2 hour journey and there are no toilets on the various public coach services.

The utterly filthy disgusting public toilet shown above - as it actually recently existed on 10 Giugno – and which also went uncleaned for several days subsequently - was utterly unusable, deeply shocking and disgraceful.  The 10 Giugno was the occasion of the ceremonial CORPUS DOMINI religious processions which took place all along Petralia’s main street Corso P Agliata. The processions and ceremonies went on for hours and hidden about 20 seconds walk away the above disgusting open public toilet was the only Petralia public toilet provision available at that time for local use. You would have thought that the Municipal Authorities would have ensured that at least a clean local toilet was available at such a time. It was an absolute and utter disgrace that they did not.  In effect in Petralia Sottana there was absolutely no useable public toilet provision. Indeed there is no designated female provision at the above photographed location. Furthermore there is also no Corso Agliata signage. This is not likely to be a great attraction for visitors to the Madonie Region although for example other local Madonie Commune’s do better – GERACI SICULO, POLIZZI GENEROSA, ISNELLO as well as also GANGI and NICOSIA.

IL PETRINO the local monthly PETRALIA SOTTANA community magazine although it is still being produced appears to have lapsed back into the dreamland slumbers from which it was awoken back in 2004 by an earlier postcard artwork complaint lodged back then about PETRALIA SOTTANA’s then disgusting public toilets – as reproduced in part in the above image.  And the organisation PRO LOCO which is attempting to reach out to communities from far afield also seems to be struck dumb on this fundamental and basic necessity. Of course there is no sign of toilet paper. I have never seen in the UK - maybe others have but in over 70 years I have not - toilet pedestals that have been crouched on top of by users not sat upon so that excrement is then deposited all down and around the nearby rear wall surfaces - as per the above Petralia photograph.    

ALAS THINGS ARE NOT NOW IMPROVED SINCE 2004 - IN FACT THEY ARE WORSE! SINDACO SANTO has just been re-elected. Clearly there is still work to do which ought by now to have been long ago resolved positively. Weak excuses wont do - the year now is 2012 not 1912 or 1812.  And no pyrotechnics would be required.

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VATICAN FRUIT MACHINE - A VIA LUPO PETRALIA SOTTANA POEM.

                   CLICK ON THE ABOVE TEXT TO INCREASE 

                                 ITS VISIBILITY GREATLY.
(Post script - there a few "FRUIT CASES" in PETRALIA SOTTANA!!) 


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